Wishing You a Wonderful Season

Prima Fleur Essential Oils: Our Nepal Palmarosa program makes Pulse magazine

Pulse magazine, the official publication of iSpa, recently featured our program in Nepal, mentioned here on this blog. See the article on page 21 of the December 2013 issue, in the Giving Back column. Click here to read the full magazine: Pulse December 2013

 

For information on our essential oils, please visit our website.

Prima Fleur Premier Product: VANILLE DU VANUATU SUGAR SCRUB

Our NEW body scrub, Vanille du Vanuatu Sugar Scrub [No. 1124] is spotlighted in the December 2013 American Spa In the Mix column, and the article offers great information about the use of sugar in spa products. We blend fine baker's sugar into all of our body exfoliators with sugar, because it provides such a gentle scrubbing effect, it's safe for even sensitive skins. The aroma of the Vanille du Vanuatu Sugar Scrub is warming and tropical, combining delicious Bourbon vanilla with earthy ylang ylang and ho wood oils. Bisabolol or candeia provides anti-inflammatory effects. Exotic oils and butters of coconut, kukui, and foraha are also featured.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com.

An Interview with Owner and Formulator Marianne Griffeth

The Asia-Pacific installment of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit for this year begins today in Hong Kong. We're flashing back to an interview with our owner and formulator Marianne Griffeth from the 2011 conference in New York City. She shares the origins behind the company and our approach to developing products with natural ingredients.

Prima Fleur creates and manufactures exclusive products for some of the world's most prestigious personal care brands. For more information on custom formulation and manufacture with any of these ingredients or other exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please visit our website or email our Sales team.

Unique Oils ~ Distinctive Products

The origins of kendi oil

Between traditional carrier oils and more concentrated aromatic essential oils lies a unique category of vegetable oils that can boost the benefits of products even when used in small amounts. These oils contain higher levels of antioxidants and additional phytonutrients, and often even have scent and color like essential oils. They have been added to our inventory for special uses, such as in luxury facial and body oils or for boosting products used in treatments.

In formulation terms, vegetable oils are often referred to as "fixed oils" because their large molecules don't evaporate, or volatilize, as essential oils do. They can be extracted with heat or solvents, expeller-pressed, or cold-pressed. But this group of rare fixed oils is special: They are expeller or cold-pressed, so there's no exposure to high heat that can reduce the efficacy of beneficial compounds. Many come from fair-trade and organic sources. Often the plant material from which they derive is literally tough to crack ~ think tiny seeds and thick-skinned nuts ~ making them best for more selective use.

Take organic Cranberry Seed Oil [Prima Fleur No. 444], which is naturally UV-protective, anti-inflammatory, and rich in antioxidants and alpha-linolenic and linoleic acids. Highly stable due to its content of phenolic compounds, it may help prevent rancidity when used with other more delicate oils, such as evening primrose, flaxseed, and borage seed. From Madagascar comes Ecocert and NOP certified organic Calophyllum inophyllum Oil [No. 401], featured in many of our Premier Products, including our Rejuvenating Crème Cleanser. Consider also Indonesian Kendi Oil [No. 432], which contains 25% omega-3 fatty acids and is produced via a fair-trade and organic program, and our organic Rose Hip Seed Oil [No. 433] and Carrot Seed Oil [No. 435].
 
For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Prima Fleur Carrier Oil: CRANBERRY SEED OIL

Antioxidant-rich and very stable, Prima Fleur Cranberry Seed Oil [No. 444] Vaccinium macrocarpon is naturally anti-inflammatory and UV-protective on the broad spectrum, making it ideal in personal care for the skin and hair, including lip balms, face masques, moisturizers, and conditioners. When used in products, its natural phenolic compounds, tocotrienols, and tocopherols may help prevent rancidity for other more delicate oils with skin benefits, such as evening primrose, flaxseed, and borage seed. Cranberry seed oil is extracted through a cold-press process, without the use of chemicals or solvents. It is an excellent source of alpha-linolenic (23% to 35%) and linoleic acids (35% to 44.5%) and has a high ratio of Omega 3 to Omega 6. The greenish gold oil has a fruity odor and a pH of 5.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com.

GLOBAL VIEW: Palmarosa Cultivation in Nepal



Palmarosa seeds ready to be sowed

The essential oil from the leaves and flower tops of palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii var. motia) has a sweet, slightly citrus scent that calls to mind both geranium and rose. A native grass, palmarosa grows wild from the southern subtropical slopes of Nepal to the serene Himalaya Mountains. Nepal is where we find the farmer’s cooperative that produces our Palmarosa Essential Oil [Prima Fleur No. 208]. After the seeds are sowed, the fields are flooded. The resulting grasses are ready to harvest between October and December, after the plants begin to bud. To obtain the highest yield of oil with the best quality, they distill from the leaves and the upper third of the stems. Below, a slideshow of the cultivation process for our palmarosa in Nepal.


Inspecting the oil after distillation

Produced by steam distillation of the fresh or dried grass, palmarosa may be a lesser known essential oil, but it is superlative for skin care, offering cell regenerative and antiseptic properties beneficial to dry, mature, and problem skin types. While palmarosa soothes the skin, it is also uplifting to the spirit, reducing nervous tension and stress, clearing the mind, and calming the senses. Excellent for use in diffusers, palmarosa is high in geraniol, a terpene alcohol that is anti-bacterial, toning, and stimulating to the immune system. Palmarosa’s pleasing odor and its properties against bacteria make it ideal for disinfecting stale rooms. 



The Nepalese name the plant Motiya, and have capitalized on its benefits to create economic opportunities. By providing a guaranteed market for cultivated and wild-collected plants, cooperative programs help small-scale local farmers continue to work the fields, as well as promote the protection of open space for business purposes by leasing privately owned and community lands. Cultivation and harvest are organic and sustainable: What remains from the distillation process is composted and returned to the lands to encourage fertile soil. Micro-financing is available to help local people begin to farm and to provide them with the knowledge to properly cultivate and harvest the plants. Not only can plants like bountiful palmarosa provide therapeutic benefits to people worldwide, they also offer rural residents consistent employment and cash earnings, thereby raising quality of life.

For information on our Essential Oils and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to place an order, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Green Cosmeceuticals Produce Results

Prima Fleur owner Marianne Griffeth talks green formulation and how certification agencies have pushed innovation in this August 2013 Organic Spa magazine article. Using naturally derived actives and preservatives systems to formulate does build an effective ~ and we might argue, better ~ anti-aging product. Click to read the full article!

GLOBAL VIEW: Bulgarian Rose Harvest

The Centifolia rose, with its many layers of silken petals, sensual colors, euphoric scent and deeply romantic history, lifts the heart, inspires the mind and restores the spirit. The rose grows in many varieties, proving it to be a nomad and a veritable champion of flowers. Able to tolerate polar cold and tropical heat, it has adapted to widely varying climates and terroir. The place where the rose is said to grow best, Bulgaria's famed Valley of the Roses, is where we harvest and distill our prized organic Rosa damascena Essential Oil [Prima Fleur No. 282]. We are poised to bring our customers the results of this year's distillation of the pink Damask rose. Below, the 2013 harvest in pictures.

Hand-harvested in the early morning, the roses are distilled in copper stills by a water-steam process. The methods used today are not entirely different than those employed many centuries ago ~ although, with the price of a kilo of oil in the thousands of dollars, one can be certain the science has advanced. Approximately 1,200 liters of water cover 150 to 300 kilos of roses, which float freely. Direct steam injected into the water keeps them from forming a compact mass. The water is slowly brought to a boil and allowed to simmer for about 1½ hours. First, the "direct oil," or Surovo Maslo in Bulgarian, is drawn off. Then the "first waters" of this and subsequent distillations are bunched and redistilled. This cohobation, as it is called, takes about 2 hours. The top of the water is distilled off. It is a condensate called the "second water" and contains what is called the "water oil." This oil is drawn off and the two oils, direct and water, are combined. The ratio, on average, is 25% direct oil to 75% water oil. It takes an average of 4,000 kilos of flowers to make 1 kilo of oil.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Proven Skin Soothers

Our extensive trove of naturally derived ingredients for soothing sensitive skin and reducing erythema and inflammation grows each year, as we discover how to harness the inherent capabilities of certain plants for preventing irritation and protecting the skin's natural moisture barrier. The demand for these ingredients rises with the increased awareness of allergies and skin sensitivities. Oats are a known skin soother, but newer, more target-specific options include beta glucan, oat kernel oil and oat avenanthramides, which are uniquely found in oat grains. Each of these ingredients is antioxidant rich and powerfully anti-irritant. Clinical studies on oats show healing effects for dry and itchy skin.

Magnolia grandiflora bark extract, used in traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurveda for its calming and soothing properties, is designed to reduce redness and inflammation in sensitive skins. Skin treated with this extract at 3% before experiencing irritation, suffered only slight pricking and tingling as opposed to untreated skin, which went through burning, stinging, and itching.

Prima Fleur creates and manufactures exclusive products for some of the world's most prestigious personal care brands. For more information on custom formulation and manufacture with any of these ingredients or other exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please visit our website or email our Sales team.

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: CALENDULA CO2

Calendula CO₂ Extract [Prima Fleur No. 502], Calendula officinalis marigold flower extract is supercritical carbon extracted from flowers organically grown in Germany. It is used in in both cosmetics and pharmaceuticals for treatment of dry and sensitive skin as well as for burns, bruises and irritations. It contains 17-25% faradiol esters which have significant anti-inflammatory effects. It also contains carotenes evidenced by its amazing golden-orange color. It is enjoyed by perfumers for its rich, sweet, warm, and somewhat floral scent that is exquisite in salves and healing balms. When heated slightly in a Bain Marie (water bath) it easily blends into other essential oils. It may be added to vegetable oils directly by first warming and stirring the calendula with a small amount of the vegetable oil before mixing into the entire batch. Because of the intense color, a conservative dosage of 0,1 - 0,3 % is recommended. Experience calendula CO₂ blended with neroli, palmarosa, rose, and Australian sandalwood in our Calendula Hydra Boost Face Lotion [No. 1217].

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

 

Wholesome Waters

As the weather warms, freshen your face, freshen the air, and cool the skin with the potent aromatic waters known as hydrosols. Produced similarly to essential oils, through steam distillation, hydrosols can be misted directly on the skin without dilution, and are gentler than essential oils themselves, although they still naturally bear anti-inflammatory and antiseptic benefits. Because they contain water-soluble beneficial compounds, hydrosols also make excellent bases for or additions to water-based products for custom development.

How do our growers and distillers make our hydrosols? Pristine plant material is exposed to steam to create essential oils. Once the steam cools into water, the molecules of essential oil float to the top. The two are separated, and the water left behind is hydrosol. The scent of these hydrosols is similar to that of the essential oil, but more delicate. (In fact, due to this delicate nature, hydrosols should be refrigerated or preserved for storage.)

We offer more than a dozen hydrosols. A few to try:

• A guardian of health for mind and body, rosemary has an aroma that lifts the cloak of melancholy, restoring a sense of well-being. Rosemary Hydrosol [Nos. 719 and 729, organic] is an excellent tonic for sluggish skin, as it stimulates microcirculation and balances hydration and oil production. Blend with Rose Geranium, Lavender, and/or Rose before using.

• Lovely for anyone, any time of year, Rosewater [No. 701] has been used throughout the ages to restore radiance to skin. The most precious of all flowers, rose represents earthly passion and divine enlightenment. There is no need to add anything to enhance rosewater, but it can bring beauty to medicinal scents and soften heavier herbals. Ours is certified organic and sourced in Bulgaria, where the finest rose oils and rosewaters are produced.

  
• From Northern California, Rose Geranium Hydrosol [No. 707] is excellent for relieving the discomfort of hot flashes from mid-life changes. It balances the skin and calms redness. Excellent paired with Peppermint Hydrosol [No. 717] for a summer cooler.

Sampling is strongly recommended before purchase as we do not accept returns on hydrosols.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com or call (415) 455-0957.

Inspired Treatments with Sage

Marianne Griffeth shares her expertise in this American Spa article about out how sage-inspired treatments and products provide clients with herbal healing. Click to read the full article!

 

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: GINGER

Ginger is a wonderful essential oil. We have three kinds: Ginger Ecocert Organic from Madagascar [Prima Fleur No. 133], Ginger Wild steam-distilled from the root from India [No. 230], and CO2-extracted Ginger Total from Nigeria [No. 510]. The scent of all three is spicy, but there are delicious nuances that make each different. Fresh ginger tea has been shown to reduce gastric secretions and capsules of dried ginger are effective in reducing motion sickness. Ginger oil can be added to food or added to make spicy perfumes.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: THYME

A manger herb, thyme, along with rosemary, bedstraw and pennyroyal, are used in home decorations. These fragrant herbs had a pleasing antiseptic fragrance the kept the bed of the baby Jesus wholesome, free from vermin. Thyme is a symbol of bravery and associated with Jesus, as he would have to endure much suffering and have to be courageous and patient. The essential oil can be used to fragrance your blends, spray on your decorations, use in your skin care and add to the festive mood. We have Thyme CT borneol [Prima Fleur No. 232] and Thyme CT linalool [No. 181].

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: GALBANUM

Galbanum (Ferul galbanifera) gum extract is a natural fatty gummy resin, and the essential oil is steam-distilled from the resin. It has a strong green odor and is used as a fixative in perfume and incense. Its anti-inflammatory qualities make it a wonderful aid for poor circulation and can be used in hot compresses for most pain relief. Since it is antiseptic and antimicrobial, wounds are more quickly healed. It has soothing properties, especially on aching hands, feet or joints. The essential oil [Prima Fleur No. 200] is used in skin products for revitalizing aging skin and in body care products to warm.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Prima Fleur Premier Skin Care: GOTU KOLA & CYPRESS PORE REFINING CLEANSER

Gotu Kola & Cypress Pore Refining Cleanser [Prima Fleur no. 1202]  includes a natural fruit acid complex with sugar cane, lemon, and orange extracts, which form a high-quality AHA complex that is less irritating than those found in comparable products. Ecocert Greenlife certified, this complex has been proven effective at minimizing the appearance of wrinkles, age spots and fine lines. AHAs encourage the cell renewal process to be more like that of younger skin. The result is a fresher, smoother face with more even skin tone. These natural acids don't irritate or cause photosensitivity or redness like other anti-aging ingredients such as Retin-A.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

 

 

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: LITSEA CUBEBA

Litsea cubeba (May Chang) is a small tropical tree with lemon scented leaves and flowers and small berries which resemble peppers. Organoleptic Description of Oil: A pale yellow liquid, clear, not-viscous, intensity 5-6, taste, tart, and irritating, with a tart lemon-fresh and fruity odor. The scent of May Chang has been compared to lemongrass and lemon verbena. It is most valued for its antiseptic properties when used externally in skin care.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

 

 

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: SPIKENARD

Spikenard is a deep dark oil both in color and depth; an aromatic rhizome. The botanical name has its roots in the Hindu word “jatamansi” which means: lock of hair. Its use goes back in several cultures and religions. Medicinally, it is part of the Ayurveda, and is considered to calm the nerves and promote awareness and strengthen the mind. 

Spikenard is a perennial herb of the valerian family native to the Himalayan region around Nepal and Bhutan. Also called Indian root or wild licorice, spikenard is a very warm and wet herb that lifts the spirits and clears the airways. The balsamifarus smell is an immediate indicator that it helps the lungs. It is anti-inflammatory, astringent, anti-spasmodic, antiseptic, expectorant, carminative, antibiotic, and anti-sclerotic. 

Our wonderfully intense Spikenard Essential Oil is used in skin and body care products to rejuvenate the skin. We offer Prima Fleur No. 390 from the cultivated root in Tibet, or Prima Fleur No. 392 from Nepal.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: MYRRH

Myrrh is a resin extract, and one of the most ancient extracts used in medicine, ritual, ceremony, and sacrament, dating back as far as 4500 B.C.E. The Egyptians used this precious oil for embalming the dead as well as for beautifying practices. One of the Twelve Oils of Ancient Scripture, myrrh is mentioned in the Bible dozens of times, most often as a gift or the base oil in ointments and salves. In fact, it was so commonly used during the time of Christ that the Greek word for “ointment” and the Greek word for “myrrh” were the same: muron. It is known that Chinese, Egyptian, and Indian herbalists used myrrh as an inhalant and for religious sacrament more than 4,000 years ago. Today, myrrh is still considered special and is used in meditation, massage, and perfumery.

Our Myrrh Essential Oil [Prima Fleur, No. 196] is from Ethiopia obtained from “tears” of resin exuding from incisions made in the bark of a small tree of the Burseraceae family that is native to Yemen, Somalia and eastern parts of Ethiopia.  It is extracted by supercritical fluid extraction with natural carbon dioxide. It takes 11 to 16 kilos of raw material to yield 1 kilo of product. When soil, elevation, temperature, and rainfall conditions are conducive, testing the viscosity and stickiness of freshly exposed sap predicts the resulting resin’s quality.

 

In perfumery, myrrh is a rich deep base note adding dry, woody, balsamic properties. It is also a fixative, and extends the scent qualities of any other oils with which it is combined. Myrrh has been used to treat many conditions and is said to strengthen the immune system, fight viruses and bacterial infections, and act as an anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal. Skilled herbalists, Ayurvedic practitioners, and Chinese doctors use Myrrh for winter-related conditions, including cracked skin, colds, coughs, sore throats, and chest infections as Myrrh is soothing, drying, and restorative. 

 

Myrrh is best blended with lavender, frankincense, sandalwood, geranium, sage and citrus oils. It is an excellent base in exotic, spicy blends with evergreens, patchouli, spice oils, and heavy florals. 

 

For more information on how to order from our Premier Product line, please visit our website. For questions, or to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com  or call (415) 455-0957.
 

Prima Fleur Essential Oil Blend: SOLALEVA

An exclusive blend of palmarosa, lavender, sandalwood, bisabolol, geranium, neroli, roman chamomile, sarsaparilla ~ developed specifically for use in skin care. Only from Prima Fleur, No. 6059.

Ingredients in bold are certified organic. For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom formulation with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact:  sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

 

Prima Fleur Essential Oil Blend: REJUVENATION

An exclusive blend of neroli, rose, and lavender developed specifically for use in skin care. Only from Prima Fleur, No. 6038.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

 

CO2 Extraction: A Primer

Carbon dioxide, which gives sparkling water its bubbles, is also used in extracting volatile compounds ~ antioxidants, essential oils, and fatty oils ~ from plants. The process is known as supercritical CO₂ extraction. Because this process subjects raw materials to high pressure instead of high temperatures, these extracts more closely resemble the original plant material in smell, taste, and constituents, lending the resulting oils the plant’s properties, including in some cases antimicrobial and antioxidant benefits. The sophistication of the supercritical extraction process means that extracts can be standardized for quality. The process is gentle and leaves no chemical solvent residues. Produced without oxygen, the resulting extracts are also sterile and need no preservation.
CO₂ extracts are categorized in two ways, as “select” and “total”:

• Extracted at lower pressures, Select extracts contain only the volatile compounds that are CO₂ soluble. Waxes, resins, and compounds that lend color remain in the plant material. Selects are often thick but pourable, with an appearance similar to steam-distilled essential oils, though some of the volatile compounds they contain will not be found in a steam-distilled version of the oil.
• A Total CO₂ extract, on the other hand, does contain both volatile and non-volatile CO₂ soluble compounds. This means total extracts tend to be thick like paste, though they will solubilize in vegetable oils with little or no warming necessary. More similar to the plant themselves, totals are extracted at higher pressure and include some of the plant waxes and resins.

by Marianne Griffeth ©2013

Prima Fleur Essential Oil Blend: PURIFYING

An exclusive blend of cypress, ylang ylang, and lavender ~ developed specifically for use in skin care. Only from Prima Fleur, No. 6032.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

 

Prima Fleur Essential Oil Blend: SENSITIVE

An exclusive blend of Rosa damascena, ylang ylang, lavender, spikenard essential oils ~ developed specifically for use in skin care. Only from Prima Fleur, No. 6031.

Ingredients in bold are certified organic. For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact: sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Prima Fleur Essential Oil Blend: FLEUR DE L'ORANGE

An exclusive certified-organic blend of neroli, lemon myrtle, pink grapefruit, orange ~ developed specifically for use in skin care. Only from Prima Fleur, No. 6079.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Prima Fleur Essential Oil Blend: DEEP PORE

An exclusive blend of myrtle, lavender, and carrot seed ~ developed specifically for use in skin care. Only from Prima Fleur, No. 6030.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.