GLOBAL VIEW: Bulgarian Rose Harvest

The Centifolia rose, with its many layers of silken petals, sensual colors, euphoric scent and deeply romantic history, lifts the heart, inspires the mind and restores the spirit. The rose grows in many varieties, proving it to be a nomad and a veritable champion of flowers. Able to tolerate polar cold and tropical heat, it has adapted to widely varying climates and terroir. The place where the rose is said to grow best, Bulgaria's famed Valley of the Roses, is where we harvest and distill our prized organic Rosa damascena Essential Oil [Prima Fleur No. 282]. We are poised to bring our customers the results of this year's distillation of the pink Damask rose. Below, the 2013 harvest in pictures.

Hand-harvested in the early morning, the roses are distilled in copper stills by a water-steam process. The methods used today are not entirely different than those employed many centuries ago ~ although, with the price of a kilo of oil in the thousands of dollars, one can be certain the science has advanced. Approximately 1,200 liters of water cover 150 to 300 kilos of roses, which float freely. Direct steam injected into the water keeps them from forming a compact mass. The water is slowly brought to a boil and allowed to simmer for about 1½ hours. First, the "direct oil," or Surovo Maslo in Bulgarian, is drawn off. Then the "first waters" of this and subsequent distillations are bunched and redistilled. This cohobation, as it is called, takes about 2 hours. The top of the water is distilled off. It is a condensate called the "second water" and contains what is called the "water oil." This oil is drawn off and the two oils, direct and water, are combined. The ratio, on average, is 25% direct oil to 75% water oil. It takes an average of 4,000 kilos of flowers to make 1 kilo of oil.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Proven Skin Soothers

Our extensive trove of naturally derived ingredients for soothing sensitive skin and reducing erythema and inflammation grows each year, as we discover how to harness the inherent capabilities of certain plants for preventing irritation and protecting the skin's natural moisture barrier. The demand for these ingredients rises with the increased awareness of allergies and skin sensitivities. Oats are a known skin soother, but newer, more target-specific options include beta glucan, oat kernel oil and oat avenanthramides, which are uniquely found in oat grains. Each of these ingredients is antioxidant rich and powerfully anti-irritant. Clinical studies on oats show healing effects for dry and itchy skin.

Magnolia grandiflora bark extract, used in traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurveda for its calming and soothing properties, is designed to reduce redness and inflammation in sensitive skins. Skin treated with this extract at 3% before experiencing irritation, suffered only slight pricking and tingling as opposed to untreated skin, which went through burning, stinging, and itching.

Prima Fleur creates and manufactures exclusive products for some of the world's most prestigious personal care brands. For more information on custom formulation and manufacture with any of these ingredients or other exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please visit our website or email our Sales team.

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: CALENDULA CO2

Calendula CO₂ Extract [Prima Fleur No. 502], Calendula officinalis marigold flower extract is supercritical carbon extracted from flowers organically grown in Germany. It is used in in both cosmetics and pharmaceuticals for treatment of dry and sensitive skin as well as for burns, bruises and irritations. It contains 17-25% faradiol esters which have significant anti-inflammatory effects. It also contains carotenes evidenced by its amazing golden-orange color. It is enjoyed by perfumers for its rich, sweet, warm, and somewhat floral scent that is exquisite in salves and healing balms. When heated slightly in a Bain Marie (water bath) it easily blends into other essential oils. It may be added to vegetable oils directly by first warming and stirring the calendula with a small amount of the vegetable oil before mixing into the entire batch. Because of the intense color, a conservative dosage of 0,1 - 0,3 % is recommended. Experience calendula CO₂ blended with neroli, palmarosa, rose, and Australian sandalwood in our Calendula Hydra Boost Face Lotion [No. 1217].

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

 

Wholesome Waters

As the weather warms, freshen your face, freshen the air, and cool the skin with the potent aromatic waters known as hydrosols. Produced similarly to essential oils, through steam distillation, hydrosols can be misted directly on the skin without dilution, and are gentler than essential oils themselves, although they still naturally bear anti-inflammatory and antiseptic benefits. Because they contain water-soluble beneficial compounds, hydrosols also make excellent bases for or additions to water-based products for custom development.

How do our growers and distillers make our hydrosols? Pristine plant material is exposed to steam to create essential oils. Once the steam cools into water, the molecules of essential oil float to the top. The two are separated, and the water left behind is hydrosol. The scent of these hydrosols is similar to that of the essential oil, but more delicate. (In fact, due to this delicate nature, hydrosols should be refrigerated or preserved for storage.)

We offer more than a dozen hydrosols. A few to try:

• A guardian of health for mind and body, rosemary has an aroma that lifts the cloak of melancholy, restoring a sense of well-being. Rosemary Hydrosol [Nos. 719 and 729, organic] is an excellent tonic for sluggish skin, as it stimulates microcirculation and balances hydration and oil production. Blend with Rose Geranium, Lavender, and/or Rose before using.

• Lovely for anyone, any time of year, Rosewater [No. 701] has been used throughout the ages to restore radiance to skin. The most precious of all flowers, rose represents earthly passion and divine enlightenment. There is no need to add anything to enhance rosewater, but it can bring beauty to medicinal scents and soften heavier herbals. Ours is certified organic and sourced in Bulgaria, where the finest rose oils and rosewaters are produced.

  
• From Northern California, Rose Geranium Hydrosol [No. 707] is excellent for relieving the discomfort of hot flashes from mid-life changes. It balances the skin and calms redness. Excellent paired with Peppermint Hydrosol [No. 717] for a summer cooler.

Sampling is strongly recommended before purchase as we do not accept returns on hydrosols.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com or call (415) 455-0957.

Inspired Treatments with Sage

Marianne Griffeth shares her expertise in this American Spa article about out how sage-inspired treatments and products provide clients with herbal healing. Click to read the full article!

 

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: GINGER

Ginger is a wonderful essential oil. We have three kinds: Ginger Ecocert Organic from Madagascar [Prima Fleur No. 133], Ginger Wild steam-distilled from the root from India [No. 230], and CO2-extracted Ginger Total from Nigeria [No. 510]. The scent of all three is spicy, but there are delicious nuances that make each different. Fresh ginger tea has been shown to reduce gastric secretions and capsules of dried ginger are effective in reducing motion sickness. Ginger oil can be added to food or added to make spicy perfumes.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Prima Fleur Essential Oil: THYME

A manger herb, thyme, along with rosemary, bedstraw and pennyroyal, are used in home decorations. These fragrant herbs had a pleasing antiseptic fragrance the kept the bed of the baby Jesus wholesome, free from vermin. Thyme is a symbol of bravery and associated with Jesus, as he would have to endure much suffering and have to be courageous and patient. The essential oil can be used to fragrance your blends, spray on your decorations, use in your skin care and add to the festive mood. We have Thyme CT borneol [Prima Fleur No. 232] and Thyme CT linalool [No. 181].

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.