An Interview with Owner and Formulator Marianne Griffeth

The Asia-Pacific installment of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit for this year begins today in Hong Kong. We're flashing back to an interview with our owner and formulator Marianne Griffeth from the 2011 conference in New York City. She shares the origins behind the company and our approach to developing products with natural ingredients.

Prima Fleur creates and manufactures exclusive products for some of the world's most prestigious personal care brands. For more information on custom formulation and manufacture with any of these ingredients or other exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please visit our website or email our Sales team.

Unique Oils ~ Distinctive Products

The origins of kendi oil

Between traditional carrier oils and more concentrated aromatic essential oils lies a unique category of vegetable oils that can boost the benefits of products even when used in small amounts. These oils contain higher levels of antioxidants and additional phytonutrients, and often even have scent and color like essential oils. They have been added to our inventory for special uses, such as in luxury facial and body oils or for boosting products used in treatments.

In formulation terms, vegetable oils are often referred to as "fixed oils" because their large molecules don't evaporate, or volatilize, as essential oils do. They can be extracted with heat or solvents, expeller-pressed, or cold-pressed. But this group of rare fixed oils is special: They are expeller or cold-pressed, so there's no exposure to high heat that can reduce the efficacy of beneficial compounds. Many come from fair-trade and organic sources. Often the plant material from which they derive is literally tough to crack ~ think tiny seeds and thick-skinned nuts ~ making them best for more selective use.

Take organic Cranberry Seed Oil [Prima Fleur No. 444], which is naturally UV-protective, anti-inflammatory, and rich in antioxidants and alpha-linolenic and linoleic acids. Highly stable due to its content of phenolic compounds, it may help prevent rancidity when used with other more delicate oils, such as evening primrose, flaxseed, and borage seed. From Madagascar comes Ecocert and NOP certified organic Calophyllum inophyllum Oil [No. 401], featured in many of our Premier Products, including our Rejuvenating Crème Cleanser. Consider also Indonesian Kendi Oil [No. 432], which contains 25% omega-3 fatty acids and is produced via a fair-trade and organic program, and our organic Rose Hip Seed Oil [No. 433] and Carrot Seed Oil [No. 435].
 
For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Prima Fleur Carrier Oil: CRANBERRY SEED OIL

Antioxidant-rich and very stable, Prima Fleur Cranberry Seed Oil [No. 444] Vaccinium macrocarpon is naturally anti-inflammatory and UV-protective on the broad spectrum, making it ideal in personal care for the skin and hair, including lip balms, face masques, moisturizers, and conditioners. When used in products, its natural phenolic compounds, tocotrienols, and tocopherols may help prevent rancidity for other more delicate oils with skin benefits, such as evening primrose, flaxseed, and borage seed. Cranberry seed oil is extracted through a cold-press process, without the use of chemicals or solvents. It is an excellent source of alpha-linolenic (23% to 35%) and linoleic acids (35% to 44.5%) and has a high ratio of Omega 3 to Omega 6. The greenish gold oil has a fruity odor and a pH of 5.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com.

GLOBAL VIEW: Palmarosa Cultivation in Nepal



Palmarosa seeds ready to be sowed

The essential oil from the leaves and flower tops of palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii var. motia) has a sweet, slightly citrus scent that calls to mind both geranium and rose. A native grass, palmarosa grows wild from the southern subtropical slopes of Nepal to the serene Himalaya Mountains. Nepal is where we find the farmer’s cooperative that produces our Palmarosa Essential Oil [Prima Fleur No. 208]. After the seeds are sowed, the fields are flooded. The resulting grasses are ready to harvest between October and December, after the plants begin to bud. To obtain the highest yield of oil with the best quality, they distill from the leaves and the upper third of the stems. Below, a slideshow of the cultivation process for our palmarosa in Nepal.


Inspecting the oil after distillation

Produced by steam distillation of the fresh or dried grass, palmarosa may be a lesser known essential oil, but it is superlative for skin care, offering cell regenerative and antiseptic properties beneficial to dry, mature, and problem skin types. While palmarosa soothes the skin, it is also uplifting to the spirit, reducing nervous tension and stress, clearing the mind, and calming the senses. Excellent for use in diffusers, palmarosa is high in geraniol, a terpene alcohol that is anti-bacterial, toning, and stimulating to the immune system. Palmarosa’s pleasing odor and its properties against bacteria make it ideal for disinfecting stale rooms. 



The Nepalese name the plant Motiya, and have capitalized on its benefits to create economic opportunities. By providing a guaranteed market for cultivated and wild-collected plants, cooperative programs help small-scale local farmers continue to work the fields, as well as promote the protection of open space for business purposes by leasing privately owned and community lands. Cultivation and harvest are organic and sustainable: What remains from the distillation process is composted and returned to the lands to encourage fertile soil. Micro-financing is available to help local people begin to farm and to provide them with the knowledge to properly cultivate and harvest the plants. Not only can plants like bountiful palmarosa provide therapeutic benefits to people worldwide, they also offer rural residents consistent employment and cash earnings, thereby raising quality of life.

For information on our Essential Oils and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to place an order, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Green Cosmeceuticals Produce Results

Prima Fleur owner Marianne Griffeth talks green formulation and how certification agencies have pushed innovation in this August 2013 Organic Spa magazine article. Using naturally derived actives and preservatives systems to formulate does build an effective ~ and we might argue, better ~ anti-aging product. Click to read the full article!

GLOBAL VIEW: Bulgarian Rose Harvest

The Centifolia rose, with its many layers of silken petals, sensual colors, euphoric scent and deeply romantic history, lifts the heart, inspires the mind and restores the spirit. The rose grows in many varieties, proving it to be a nomad and a veritable champion of flowers. Able to tolerate polar cold and tropical heat, it has adapted to widely varying climates and terroir. The place where the rose is said to grow best, Bulgaria's famed Valley of the Roses, is where we harvest and distill our prized organic Rosa damascena Essential Oil [Prima Fleur No. 282]. We are poised to bring our customers the results of this year's distillation of the pink Damask rose. Below, the 2013 harvest in pictures.

Hand-harvested in the early morning, the roses are distilled in copper stills by a water-steam process. The methods used today are not entirely different than those employed many centuries ago ~ although, with the price of a kilo of oil in the thousands of dollars, one can be certain the science has advanced. Approximately 1,200 liters of water cover 150 to 300 kilos of roses, which float freely. Direct steam injected into the water keeps them from forming a compact mass. The water is slowly brought to a boil and allowed to simmer for about 1½ hours. First, the "direct oil," or Surovo Maslo in Bulgarian, is drawn off. Then the "first waters" of this and subsequent distillations are bunched and redistilled. This cohobation, as it is called, takes about 2 hours. The top of the water is distilled off. It is a condensate called the "second water" and contains what is called the "water oil." This oil is drawn off and the two oils, direct and water, are combined. The ratio, on average, is 25% direct oil to 75% water oil. It takes an average of 4,000 kilos of flowers to make 1 kilo of oil.

For information on our Premier Products and pricing, please visit our website. For questions and to explore custom development with exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please contact sales@primafleur.com ~ or call (415) 455-0957.

Proven Skin Soothers

Our extensive trove of naturally derived ingredients for soothing sensitive skin and reducing erythema and inflammation grows each year, as we discover how to harness the inherent capabilities of certain plants for preventing irritation and protecting the skin's natural moisture barrier. The demand for these ingredients rises with the increased awareness of allergies and skin sensitivities. Oats are a known skin soother, but newer, more target-specific options include beta glucan, oat kernel oil and oat avenanthramides, which are uniquely found in oat grains. Each of these ingredients is antioxidant rich and powerfully anti-irritant. Clinical studies on oats show healing effects for dry and itchy skin.

Magnolia grandiflora bark extract, used in traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurveda for its calming and soothing properties, is designed to reduce redness and inflammation in sensitive skins. Skin treated with this extract at 3% before experiencing irritation, suffered only slight pricking and tingling as opposed to untreated skin, which went through burning, stinging, and itching.

Prima Fleur creates and manufactures exclusive products for some of the world's most prestigious personal care brands. For more information on custom formulation and manufacture with any of these ingredients or other exquisite botanicals from our extensive library of raw materials, please visit our website or email our Sales team.